What is it that makes a classic wine and cheese pairing so magical? It’s all a matter of chemistry. Tannin is an astringent substance that roughens your tongue

and palate when you drink a harsh young red, such as a chianti. The reason some wines can be left in a cellar and aged for so long is that they have a high tannin content, which mellows over time and helps develop more complex flavors in the wine.

However, a protein can smooth mild tannins on the tongue, which is why wine and cheese, or red wine and a steak, are classic combinations. The protein and fats in the cheese or meat coat your tongue and prevent the tannin from tasting harsh, and the tannin keeps the steak or cheese from tasting greasy and heavy. Eaten and drunk together, cheese and wine bring out the best in each other.

Even a mediocre wine will taste a little better with a bite of cheese, but there are some combinations that rise to new heights. Andrea Immer, author of “Great Wines Made Simple” (Broadway Books, October 2000), recommends a parmigiano with cabernet sauvignon. A true Italian parmigiano goes with nearly any wine, but a strong, tannic cabernet sauvignon is perfectly heightened by the cheese’s sharp flavor.

Immer also recommends a dessert wine, such as a sauternes or port, with a blue cheese such as Roquefort or Stilton. Instead of generic blues from the local supermarket, buy a true French Roquefort or an English Stilton to experience fully the pleasure of the strong salty cheese with the sweetness of the dessert wine, be it the white sauternes or the red port.

For full story, please see the April 26, 2006 edition of The Union-Recorder